Musings from the Middle Kingdom: A Delightful Sojourn in China

On the momentous day of my students’ graduation from the University of Science and Technology of China, as I beheld them in their academic regalia, I couldn’t help but embark on a nostalgic voyage through my time in this remarkable land. It was a magnificent odyssey—a dive into a cultural cornucopia so vast that I barely skimmed its surface. China, with its kaleidoscopic wonders and rich traditions, revealed itself as an ever-bewildering treasure trove. Imagine my surprise when traditional folk music, with its ethereal and intricate melodies, became an auditory delight rather than the expected cacophony of erhu strings. And the legendary medicinal herbs? Miraculous potions brewed from leaves and roots that made modern medicine look like a child’s chemistry set. The Mandarin language, a linguistic labyrinth, evolved with such regional quirks and complexities that mastering it felt like trying to wrestle a dragon—simultaneously exasperating and exhilarating. And then there was the food. Ah, the food! My culinary escapades ranged from the heavenly dumplings of the north to the volcanic inferno of Sichuan cuisine that left my taste buds feeling like they’d tangoed with a blowtorch. There were times when my enthusiasm for spicy food had me resembling a fire-breathing dragon, frantically seeking refuge in torrents of water and mountains of rice to prevent spontaneous combustion.

In the vibrant tapestry of China’s cultural and culinary landscape, Hefei emerged as my delightful dominion. This charming city, with its bustling streets of Taihu Road and JinZhai Road in the Baohe District, became my second home. Every dog in the area had felt my affectionate pat, and every noodle shop knew me as the chap with the enormous grin who always ordered 牛肉面 (beef noodles)—non-spicy, please—and paid exclusively in cash rather than Alipay! In my territory, social boundaries blurred delightfully. On the streets, a Tesla Model 3 might be parked beside a rusty three-wheeled motorcycle, with their owners happily exchanging cigarettes. Here, a leisurely, peaceful walk was a pipe dream, constantly interrupted by Meituan delivery guys whizzing by or an onslaught of bikes, motorcycles, and scooters ensuring I stayed on my toes. Yet, these bustling streets provided me with splendid memories—souvenirs to share with anyone willing to listen.

One vivid memory is my first day at my apartment in 瀚海星座 (Hanhai Constellation). Exploring my new neighbourhood, I stumbled upon the mesmerising social activity of square dancing (广场舞). This enchanting scene featured groups of ladies, and occasionally men, dancing in perfect harmony to an eclectic mix of tunes—from Modern Talking’s "Cheri Cheri Lady" to Britney Spears’ "Womanizer," and even traditional melodies like "The Moon Represents My Heart" (月亮代表我的心) by Teresa Teng. Their synchronised movements were a metaphoric melodrama, each step imbued with meaning. I gazed in awe at this spiritual dance for hours, savouring every second.

Living in Hefei also afforded me the pleasure of embarking on memorable short-distance travels to enchanting locales like Sanhe Ancient Town (三河镇) and Chaohu. A visit to Chaohu, especially Laoshan Island, Ziwei Cave, and the Yinping Mountains, was a journey not to be missed. The city's urban parks, such as Binhu Forest Wetland Park and Baogong Park, offered serene escapes, while the mesmerising Huangshan Mountain provided a pilgrimage to a natural Shangri-La. I shared unforgettable moments with fellow scholars, waking at dawn to witness sunrises that brought tears to our eyes with their celestial beauty.

My travels also led me to other bustling cities like Beijing, Shenzhen, Nanjing, Ningbo, and Shanghai. In 2019, a visit to Igenetec Diagnostics in a high-tech zone was a fascinating glimpse into China's industrial prowess. These zones, supported by the State Council, serve as models for industrial research and development, offering superior infrastructure and exceptional incentives. Such innovation accelerates manufacturing processes, a brilliant idea the rest of the world could well emulate.

Despite the grandeur of my travels, the sweetest moments in China were undoubtedly those spent watching my students graduate and pursue higher careers. As they stood in their red cloaks, diplomas in hand, a quiet voice inside whispered, “Well done, mate, hard work's paid off, eh?” It was a gratifying reminder of the impact of our shared journey.

As my sojourn in China was about to draw to a close and I stood watching the freshly minted doctorates taking photos with their families, I was reminded of a Chinese proverb shared by a friend, a Russian expat, on her last day in China: 幸福没有路，幸福才是路 (There is no way to happiness; happiness is the way). She departed China contented, and I, too, left with a heart full of fulfilment and a treasure trove of cherished memories.

December 2021

*All photos in this note were taken by me except for the ones that I’m in!